Disappearing Rio Grande

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Why Follow the Rio Grande

by Colin McDonald | Feb. 11, 2015

The Rio Grande is disappearing. Demand for water is growing as snow packs shrink, rain patterns shift and average temperatures rise faster than they ever have in the past 11,000 years.

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Making it home for Christmas, Day 181

Three pelicans eye Colin as he floats by in his canoe. The awkward takeoff and graceful flight of the birds kept Colin entertained for hours. It also served as a gentle reminder he is getting closer to the Gulf of Mexico. Photo by: Colin McDonald

It is about 125 miles from the reservation of the Kickapoo Traditional Tribe of Texas, where we stayed Monday night, to Laredo, where we needed to be as soon as possible.   

It’s a long enough stretch that anything could happen. Mike had a deadline fast approaching. His wife and son were flying from Seattle to Texas to spend the week before Christmas with family. It was best if he did not miss too much of that time.     

Bad weather, an injury, a broken boat or a really good interview would put his domestic bliss at risk.  

It was an easy decision.  

Mike would take the more certain path of hitching a ride to Laredo to spend a day or two scouting out story ideas and shooting photos. Then he would hit the road to be with his family.  

I took to the river. 

I love interviewing people. I love traveling slowly and exploring new places. But there is also an addictive joy to blindly making miles. This reach is perfect for travel by canoe and I spent sunrise to sunset paddling.  

That may sound impressive, but please remember this is late December. On overcast days, there are only 9.5 hours of daylight at this latitude.  I also take a 15-minute break at least every 1.5 hours and a half-hour lunch.    

There was not much to do besides paddle. 

I saw four people today. Three were riding in a helicopter and I could not figure out how to interview them. The fourth was on horseback and had cattle to attend to. 

So I stared at the bow of my canoe and watched the riverbanks slip by. There were short gentle rapids that made it almost impossible to pick a bad line. Plenty of pelicans and ospreys provided entertainment. A nice set of rock shelves appeared around a river bend right when the sun started to dip below the horizon.

Somewhere in Laredo, Mike was dealing with meetings, water quality standards, alligators and other stuff I'll write about later.

I'm sure I'll have to grow up someday, too. But first, there's another 65 miles of river to cover.  

To comment on this post or ask a question, please visit the expedition's Facebook page.

Air temperature (°C)
Conductivity (µS/cm)
Depth of Measurement (meters)
Dissolved oxygen (mg/L)
E. coli colonies per 100 ml
pH level
Secchi disk transparency (meters)
Water temperature (°C)

What do these numbers mean?

As they travel, Colin and Erich are taking water samples for the following periodic water quality tests. In partnership with The Meadows Center for Water and the Environment’s Texas Stream Team Program at Texas State University, the results will be added to a public database it helps maintain for research and monitoring water quality.

Air/Water Temperature
Temperature impacts everything from the amount of oxygen in the water and the metabolism of aquatic species to how easily compounds dissolve. Most species can tolerate slow seasonal changes but can go into thermal stress or shock when temperatures change by more than one or two degrees Celsius in 24 hours.
pH Level
The pH scale measures water’s acidity and runs on a logarithmic scale from 1.0 to 14.0, with 7.0 considered neutral. Anything below 7 is acidic and anything above is basic. A pH range of 6.5 to 8.2 is optimal for most organisms.
Dissolved Oxygen
Oxygen is just as vital for life below the surface as it is above. The amount needed varies according to species and stage of life, but generally 5.0 to 6.0 milligrams per liter is required for growth and activity. Levels bellow 3.0 mg/L are stressful to most fish species and levels below 2.0 mg/L for an extended period of time will cause fish kills.
Conductivity levels depend mainly on how easily the rocks and soils a stream passes through dissolve. For example, high levels of conductivity are often found with water that passes through limestone and gypsum because it will pick up the calcium, carbonate and sulfate from those rock formations. However, discharges into a water body, such as a failing sewage system, can also raise the conductivity because of the presence of chloride, phosphate and nitrate.
Water Clarity
Turbid water can come from high levels of sediment or plankton. Both will block sunlight to aquatic plants and the sediments can carry pollution such as nutrients and pesticides. Low levels of turbidity may indicate a healthy and well-functioning ecosystem. High levels can be an indicator of runoff from eroding soils or blooms of microscopic plankton due to high levels of nutrients.
E. coli
E. coli bacteria are found in the colon of warm-blooded animals. If the pathogen is found in water it’s an indicator that fecal mater from humans, pets, livestock or wildlife is also present and may pose a public health threat. For drinking water the standard is to have no E. coli. But almost all non-treated water has some E. coli in it and at low levels it does not represent a substantial health threat to those who swim or wade in it. The Environmental Protection Agency has set the water quality standard for these types of activities at 126 colony forming units per 100 mL.
Secchi disk transparency
The Secchi disk is a plain white, circular disk used to measure water transparency in bodies of water. It is lowered into the water of a lake or other water body until it can be no longer seen. This depth of disappearance, called the Secchi disk transparency, is a conventional measure of the transparency of the water.

While making his way to the Gulf of Mexico, Colin will be periodically activating a device that uses satellite technology to share his current location. Use this map to see where he traveled on this day.

Check-In Time of Check-In (CST) Latitude Longitude
#1 7:58 a.m. 28.16795 -100.15363
#2 8:17 a.m. 28.16282 -100.13083
#3 9:05 a.m. 28.14826 -100.08887
#4 11:03 a.m. 28.07099 -100.02527
#5 12:10 p.m. 28.00889 -99.99933
#6 3:01 p.m. 27.89499 -99.89331
#7 4:26 p.m. 27.81803 -99.87515
#8 5:11 p.m. 27.79429 -99.85083
#9 5:30 p.m. 27.79118 -99.84909


To report on and understand the haphazard irrigation system the Rio Grande has become and the changes it is going through, Colin decided the best approach would be to travel the length of the Rio Grande by foot and small boat.

He knew it would give him a unique perspective on a river that few understand. It did require many long days of moving slowly and camping on muddy riverbanks, but Colin likes that sort of thing.

The benefit was it provided access to people who wanted to share their stories and experiences with the Rio Grande. Via Facebook and chance encounters, Colin made instant friends who opened their homes. They provided help from loaning their trucks to their cell phone contact lists to help tell the story of the Rio Grande.

The trip would not have been possible without their help, along with the dedicated assistance of David Lozano, Jason Jones and Daniel Dibona, who drove thousands of miles to get people and boats in place.


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